Praetor-Tribune project: the final

I am very glad to introduce to you the final result of my Praetor-Tribune project. I got a lot of fun while painting this miniature and tried ti share to you all this project's experience.
Also this project inspired me not only to do more Iron Warriors characters but also do a some Emperor Children project too.

CMON voting link http://www.coolminiornot.com/425596

Previous parts:

Part 1: the Begining

Part 2: Tests-tests-tests

Part 3: the Base

Part 4: Steel NMM

Part 5: Bronze NMM

Part 6: a Lollipop Sword

"Praetor-Tribune" project log, part 6: the lollipop sword

"Praetor-Tribune" project log, part 6: the lollipop sword
In the last part of the project, I will touch on one more important focal point of the our praetor miniature, which is the sword. I decided to do his blade is bright red and very contrast both in light and in color. This scheme is very similar to the one I used when painting crystals on the Demonsmith's base last year, but it has some changes.

Firstly, I finally bought my favorite Basic Red from Andrea Color (and a few more of their colors), which I'm incredibly happy with. And secondly, the shape of the blade forced alternating two variants of red, to achieve greater contrast.
I note that from the point of view of the display light and color on the blade a certain number of errors are allowed. But they are made deliberately to increase the contrast between the surfaces. In addition, after a series of tests, it was decided to abandon the glowing stones on the blade and reduce the OSL effect a minimum (because of which it was half repainted one hand)

The Light. Here everything is standard, as for the previous parts. First I chose the place for the main highlight and made a shadows, midlights, additionals light and reflexes. The most important of which I proceeded - with fracture surface should be strong contrast. This visually emphasizes the shape and along with the color makes the blade of the sword a focal point.

Colour. When working with the blade, in addition to the contrast of light and shadow, I decided to add a color contrast between the surfaces. The brightest part will be cold red (due to white), the second - a warm yellow-orange. You can notice that one of the surfaces is partially made in one grade, partly in another. In this case, I sacrificed "correctness" for the sake of greater contrast and dramatic effect.

As the base color for the "cold" part, I used Dark Red (Andrea Color) sequentially flashed through pure Basic Red (AC) to Scarlet (VMC). For final highlights and highlights, I used a mixture of Scarlett and Pearl White (P88), which gradually added white. In addition, as far as highlighting, I periodically made Basic Red frosting to keep a cool red tint.

The base color for the warm part was a mixture of black and Dark Vermillion (VMC), which was consistently bleached from the beginning to the pure Dark Vermillion, and then to Scarlet. The final highlightings were made by a mixture of Scarlet and Amarantha Red (both VMCs).

Praetor Tribune Project, part 5: bronze

Working with this miniature, I wanted to revise my painting experience of the previous
 Iron Warriors praetor. On that model, there were few surfaces that could be bronze made, so I'd have to make them very bright and contrast so that they stand out. There were much more such surfaces, because of what I decided that this bronze should be "more calm", both in color and in contrast.

The Light. Before the beginning of work on bronze, I mentally divided the miniature into three levels of illumination: the high level included the shoulder pads and the torso, medium - the belt and the legs to the knees, to the low-the lower part of the leg armor. I needed to divide these parts according to the illumination to create a focal point near the head of the praetor. In addition, this would distribute the lighting at a remote light source.

You can notice that in the part with low illumination, there are almost no bright spots, and those that are not as bright as in other parts. In addition, in the part with low illumination, the shadows are much darker, while the midlight are shorter.

In the middle part bright patches of light appear, and somi surfaces become more contrasting and more elaborate from the point of view of midlights.

In a part with a high level of illumination, the surface of most highlighted area is much larger than in the middle part. In addition, I added a lot of additional sparks in the form of thin, bright lines on the most illuminated and enlongered areas, which is especially noticeable on the shoulder pads.

The Colour. As already described above, I tried to make this version of bronze a little less contrast and not so bright orange. To do this, I replaced the "Dark Tangerine" and "Brown", "Orange" and "Brown Ochre" (all the colors here and further on Pacific88 Art Color) as the main colors, leaving them for auxiliary purposes. As a result, I got two color gradients: the main "Black" + "Dark Red-Brown", "Brown", "Brown Ochre", "Orange", "Pearl White" and auxiliary Black "+" Dark Red-Brown " , "Brown", "Dark Tangerine".

During painting it was very important to balance the more yellow main gradient in the lightest areas and orange reflexes. In addition, the closer to the most illuminated areas, the larger the flat occupies the main (yellow) gradient. In addition  I actively used glazes with the high diluted "Orange" and "Dark Tangerine" to bring the effect that I conceived.

Sniper girl box art for Manufaktura Miniatures

I am happy to introduce to you my new commission paintwork - the sniper girl boz-art for Manufaktura Miniatures. She has no name but just an index 01a but she is lovely anyway. I got a big fun when painting this one and hope you get it too by seeing the result.

Praetor Tribune project: part 4 (eng)

In this part I will tell you a little about how the steel HMM was made. The basis for this I described in a short article for Figure Mentors Magazine (http://figurementors.com/step-step-guide-painting-nmm-beginners-sergey-gybin-aka-ravenswood), now it's possible to describe it a little more. Consider the color scheme in terms of two parameters: the lights and the colors.

The Lights. Most of the surfaces in this miniature are cylindrical, so that the highlights will be in the form of lines of different levels of lightness. I chose the place for the main light in dependence on the imaginary light source, and broke our cylinder into several zones: sparks, light, midlight, midshadow, additional light, shadow. Further, we highlight these zones using our color track. I usually go from the darkest colors to the light ones with layering, but in principle the way of painting could be completely different, if only the results would coincide.

The Colour. In this miniature, I used the usual color scheme for the brown-blue steel of the NMM, with dark brown shadows, a more gray primary light and bluish reflections (additional light).

The scheme based on German cam. Black Brown, Andrea Blue and White (all Vallejo Model Color) Also I made additional glazes dark brown and purple in the shadows (Smokey Ink and Hexed Lichen - both from Vallejo Game Color) and painted here and there a reflection from the bronze elements (Brown and Dark Tangerine - both from Pacific88 art-color).